Formulations starts with a general introduction, explaining interaction forces between particles and droplets, self-assembly systems, polymeric surfactants and nanoemulsions. The second part covers the industrial examples ranging from foams, soaps over to hair care, sunscreen and make-up products. Combines information needed by formulation chemists as well as researchers in the cosmetic industry due the increasing number of products.

• Preface
• Contents
• 1 General introduction
• 2 Surfactants used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, their properties and surfactant–polymer interaction
  • 2.1 Surfactant classes
    • 2.1.1 Anionic surfactants
    • 2.1.2 Cationic surfactants
    • 2.1.3 Amphoteric (zwitterionic) surfactants
    • 2.1.4 Nonionic surfactants
    • 2.1.5 Surfactants derived from mono- and polysaccharides
    • 2.1.6 Naturally occurring surfactants
    • 2.1.7 Polymeric (macromolecular) surfactants
    • 2.1.8 Silicone surfactants
  • 2.2 Physical properties of surfactant solutions and the process of micellization
    • 2.2.1 Thermodynamics of micellization
  • 2.3 Micellization in surfactant mixtures (mixed micelles)
  • 2.4 Surfactant–polymer interaction
    • 2.4.1 Factors influencing the association between surfactant and polymer
    • 2.4.2 Interaction models
    • 2.4.3 Driving force for surfactant/polymer interaction
    • 2.4.4 Structure of surfactant/polymer complexes
    • 2.4.5 Surfactant/hydrophobically modified polymer interaction
    • 2.4.6 Interaction between surfactants and polymers with opposite charge (surfactant/polyelectrolyte interaction)
• 3 Polymeric surfactants in cosmetic formulations
  • 3.1 Introduction
  • 3.2 General classification of polymeric surfactants
  • 3.3 Polymeric surfactant adsorption and conformation
    • 3.3.1 Measurement of the adsorption isotherm
    • 3.3.2 Measurement of the fraction of segments p
    • 3.3.3 Determination of the segment density distribution ?(z) and adsorbed layer thickness dh
  • 3.4 Examples of the adsorption results of nonionic polymeric surfactant
    • 3.4.1 Adsorption isotherms
    • 3.4.2 Adsorbed layer thickness results
  • 3.5 Kinetics of polymer adsorption
  • 3.6 Emulsions stabilized by polymeric surfactants
• 4 Self-assembly structures in cosmetic formulations
  • 4.1 Introduction
  • 4.2 Self-assembly structures
  • 4.3 Structure of liquid crystalline phases
    • 4.3.1 Hexagonal phase
    • 4.3.2 Micellar cubic phase
    • 4.3.3 Lamellar phase
    • 4.3.4 Discontinuous cubic phases
    • 4.3.5 Reversed structures
  • 4.4 Driving force for liquid crystalline phase formation
  • 4.5 Identification of the liquid crystalline phases and investigation of their structure
  • 4.6 Formulation of liquid crystalline phases
    • 4.6.1 Oleosomes
    • 4.6.2 Hydrosomes
• 5 Interaction forces between particles or droplets in cosmetic formulations and their combination
  • 5.1 Van der Waals attraction
  • 5.2 Electrostatic repulsion
  • 5.3 Flocculation of electrostatically stabilized dispersions
  • 5.4 Criteria for stabilization of dispersions with double layer interaction
  • 5.5 Steric repulsion
    • 5.5.1 Mixing interaction Gmix
    • 5.5.2 Elastic interaction Gel
    • 5.5.3 Total energy of interaction
    • 5.5.4 Criteria for effective steric stabilization
    • 5.5.5 Flocculation of sterically stabilized dispersions
• 6 Formulation of cosmetic emulsions
  • 6.1 Introduction
  • 6.2 Thermodynamics of emulsion formation
  • 6.3 Emulsion breakdown processes and their prevention
    • 6.3.1 Creaming and sedimentation
    • 6.3.2 Flocculation
    • 6.3.3 Ostwald ripening (disproportionation)
    • 6.3.4 Coalescence
    • 6.3.5 Phase Inversion
  • 6.4 Selection of emulsifiers
    • 6.4.1 The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) concept
    • 6.4.2 The Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) concept
    • 6.4.3 The Cohesive Energy Ratio (CER) concept
    • 6.4.4 The Critical Packing Parameter (CPP) for emulsion selection
  • 6.5 Manufacture of cosmetic emulsions
    • 6.5.1 Mechanism of emulsification
    • 6.5.2 Methods of emulsification
  • 6.6 Rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions
• 7 Formulation of nanoemulsions in cosmetics
  • 7.1 Introduction
  • 7.2 Preparation of nanoemulsion by the use of high pressure homogenizers
  • 7.3 Low-energy methods for preparation of nanoemulsions
    • 7.3.1 Phase Inversion Composition (PIC) principle
    • 7.3.2 Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) principle
    • 7.3.3 Preparation of nanoemulsions by dilution of microemulsions
  • 7.4 Practical examples of nanoemulsions
  • 7.5 Nanoemulsions based on polymeric surfactants
• 8 Formulation of multiple emulsions in cosmetics
  • 8.1 Introduction
  • 8.2 Types of multiple emulsions
  • 8.3 Breakdown processes of multiple emulsions
  • 8.4 Preparation of multiple emulsions
  • 8.5 Characterization of multiple emulsions
    • 8.5.1 Droplet size analysis
    • 8.5.2 Dialysis
    • 8.5.3 Rheological techniques
  • 8.6 Summary of the factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions and criteria for their stabilization
• 9 Liposomes and vesicles in cosmetic formulations
  • 9.1 Introduction
  • 9.2 Nomenclature of liposomes and their classification
  • 9.3 Driving force for formation of vesicles
• 10 Formulation of shampoos
  • 10.1 Introduction
  • 10.2 Surfactants for use in shampoo formulations
    • 10.2.1 Anionic surfactants
    • 10.2.2 Amphoteric surfactants
    • 10.2.3 Nonionic surfactants
  • 10.3 Properties of a shampoo
  • 10.4 Components of a shampoo
    • 10.4.1 Cleansing agents
    • 10.4.2 Foam boosters
    • 10.4.3 Thickening agents
    • 10.4.4 Preservatives
    • 10.4.5 Miscellaneous additives
  • 10.5 Role of the components
    • 10.5.1 Behaviour of mixed surfactant systems
    • 10.5.2 Cleansing function
    • 10.5.3 Foam boosters
    • 10.5.4 Thickeners and rheology modifiers
    • 10.5.5 Silicone oil emulsions in shampoos
  • 10.6 Use of associative thickeners as rheology modifiers in shampoos
• 11 Formulation of hair conditioners in shampoos
  • 11.1 Introduction
  • 11.2 Morphology of hair
  • 11.3 Surface properties of hair
    • 11.3.1 Wettability investigations
    • 11.3.2 Electrokinetic studies
  • 11.4 Role of surfactants and polymers in hair conditioners
• 12 Formulation of sunscreens for UV protection
  • 12.1 Introduction
  • 12.2 Mechanism of absorbance and scattering by TiO2 and ZnO
  • 12.3 Preparation of well-dispersed particles
  • 12.4 Experimental results for sterically stabilized TiO2 dispersions in nonaqueous media
  • 12.5 Competitive interactions in sunscreen formulations
• 13 Formulation of colour cosmetics
  • 13.1 Introduction
  • 13.2 Fundamental principles for preparation of a stable colour cosmetic dispersion
    • 13.2.1 Powder wetting
    • 13.2.2 Powder dispersion and milling (comminution)
    • 13.2.3 Stabilization of the dispersion against aggregation
  • 13.3 Classes of dispersing agents
  • 13.4 Assessment of dispersants
    • 13.4.1 Adsorption isotherms
    • 13.4.2 Measurement of dispersion and particle size distribution
    • 13.4.3 Rheological measurements
  • 13.5 Application of the above fundamental principles to colour cosmetics
  • 13.6 Principles of preparation of colour cosmetics
  • 13.7 Competitive interactions in colour cosmetic formulations
• 14 Industrial examples of cosmetic and personal care formulations
  • 14.1 Shaving formulations
  • 14.2 Bar soaps
  • 14.3 Liquid hand soaps
  • 14.4 Bath oils
  • 14.5 Foam (or bubble) baths
  • 14.6 After bath preparations
  • 14.7 Skincare products
  • 14.8 Haircare formulations
  • 14.9 Sunscreens
  • 14.10 Make-up products
• Index